The Equipment and Where to Find Them |
Its Usage and/or Purpose |
Must: A 25w Overhead Lamp/Light (A clip-on light is fine)- at all stores |
At night for fathers to pick up young; fry need light to survive the first couple days |
Must: A 10 gallon tank- 9.97 at Walmart; can be cheaper at other petstores |
For the fish to live in of course =�. 5 gal may be fine, but I prefer andhave always used the 10 gal. |
Must: A submersible, preset tempertature heater- Walmart, Petshops |
A non-submersible and non- preset heater will malfunction quite easily (from own experience.) The non- preset ones have temperatures that frequently fluctuate causing fish/fry to die (w/o set temperatures on it) |
Optional: Decorations ( Don't use gravel!! )- Petstores |
A few decors are fine (I use only a centerpiece.) They can be useful as hiding places for the female/fry. I wouldn't use too many because it makes cleaning the tank harder. (Gravel makes cleaning hard and traps food; making ammonia higher.) |
Must: Thermometer strip/plain aquarium thermometer (your personal preference)- Walmart |
This is just to inform you the temperature.. keep an eye on it! |
Must: Although it doesn't matter to adult bettas, you need a deluxe pH test kit (Dr. WellFish) for fry |
Adult Bettas aren't picky about pH- (a good pH is about 7.0), but to fry, a pH of less than 6.5 may kill fry [if you know your pH reading already, you can add a pinch of backing soda to safely raise the pH]. |
Optional: Black Water Tonic - probably in specialty petshops (never bought it before) |
If your bettas won't spawn, this is your solution. It somehow "inspires" them to spawn. |
Must: Sponge Filter (size does not really matter) - Fish, Petstores |
Even though you may think that you don't need it now, this is a must. In the first couple of weeks, you should not clean your fry tank (may suck up the fry) so ammonia will build up. |
Must: Air line tubing, gangway valve, and pump - Walmart, petshops |
Hook up the sponge to the tubing, hook tubing to valve, valve to another line of tubing, tubing to pump, the plug it in! =� |
Must: Syrofoam cup cut in half - everywhere |
The male prefers to build his bubblenest under this (also can use a 3"-4" small bubblewrap |
Must: Plastic/fake plants, rocks - Walmart, petshops |
These be scattered at a corner away from the bubblenest. Real plants should not be used because it may decay, have some bad bateria. |
Must: Your usual water additives and some more: declorinater, Methlyne Blue, Aquarisol, Maroxy, and a tablespoon of salt for every 5 gal. -Petstores, salt at Walmart |
Even though some addictives are good, don't use too many!! Methylne prevents egg fungus, aqurisol prevents ick/velvet, maroxy heals wounds for the parents after spawning. |
Optional, but recommended: Small snails (Ramshorn are fine)- Petstores |
It's like a "live" filter- it eats the waste in the aquarium. Caution: It will eat small fry eggs.. you might want to add them after the fry are free-swimming. |
Must: Liquifry #1 (Egglayer's)- Fish stores |
This formula is used for the first couple of days for fry. It's really not food for them, but for the infurosia that they eat. |
Must: Tetra's Baby fish food for Egglayers, Tetra's BettaMin (crushed)- Walmart, Petshops |
Food for fry on day 2-6, the BettaMin should be crushed to be very fine, served when fry are around 3-4 weeks old |
Must: Newly hatched Baby Brine Shrimp Click here for instructions how to hatch BBS- Petstores |
BBS hatches in less than 24 hrs andcan be easily raised. It can be used around the 5th day.. some fry can eat it on the 1st-2nd day, but unless you want to cull a lot of them, wait until the 5th day. |
Recommended: Microworm and Grindal Worm Cultures- friends, A GREAT and cheap place to get any live foods |
Microworms are perfect for the first couple of days or week to get your fry a headstart. Grindal worms can be used much later, after the BBS and crushed food; in other words when they are getting really big |